One
thing about the 4th of July, sometimes
we get a nice south swell arriving on and around the holiday.
This
year we got just that. A small swell into the holiday Friday, and a slightly
larger one for Saturday/Sunday. A I decided to break my MO... not going to the
beach on a holiday or weekend... to see if I could get in on the swell.
Getting
out early, like to the beach by 6:30A was the plan. Friday the 4th there were
no parking spaces at inside point and too much crowd for up in the Fair
Grounds. I ended up talking story with a few of the crew that surf pipe like
everyday, guys I don't see too often.
Saturday
was really clean but just too inconsistent to motivate a go out. Today I got a parking space after a short
wait, nice. Looked at the surf for 10...15 minuets and thought 'even though the
surf was cleaner yesterday, and it is a little more consistent, I've come down
for the 3rd time now, I should go out even if it's pretty crowded. So I went out.
I got
some waves by manipulating my way through the lineup. Surfed for an hour or so
and came in after waiting through a long lull and getting an insider to the
beach.
On my
way back to the house I got to thinking. Though I know some guys that fish
plenty, and listened to them talk story about their days fishing, I've only
fished about 3 times in my life. You
know what? Surfing in a crowded lineup is like fishing. Some times when you fish you catch nothing.
Or your getting no bites so you move your boat some and find a couple.
Sometimes your friends in another boat get all the fish and you get
nothing.
Sometimes
in the crowded lineup you get nothing. Sometimes your buddies get all the set
waves. Sometimes if you move around in the lineup you end up getting a
couple... Just like fishing it's all kind of random.
D.R
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