Today I went down to the point for an early surf session hoping there might be waves.

When I got to the beach I saw there was a light west wind. Typically, when there is an early light west wind you can pretty much be assured that west wind won’t stay on the light side and in short order the surface condition can get choppy and not enjoyable for surfing.

However, I knew that the wind was most likely going to remain on the light side. I figured this because there is a nice weather site that is pretty good at forecasting what the local weather and wind conditions are going to be. Part of the forecast shows the anticipated wind conditions for each day by the hour. Having looked at the local weather forecast I got to see that the wind conditions were going to be pretty light all day.

So, ok on wind what about surf? That was the question. There has been a small south swell in the water for a few days but it is on the decline. South swells can sometimes have surprises and show a little surf without notice. The forecasting isn’t always spot on. So… take the chance and see if there might be a little pulse.

The surf was small for sure… If the sun was out ok but, the early morning overcast sky makes almost any surf more unattractive. Combine that with how inconsistent what little surf there was uninspiring. It became a no go.

There hasn’t been much surf and you really want to surf…..

Driving to and from the beach at 6 in the morning seems like a waist when you end up not going out.. It’s usually a back-and-forth decision. Should you go? Probably not but, what if there is a little bit of surf?  It would suck if you find out later there was a bit of surf and you missed it. Nah, I’ll just go and check it out. Then you don’t go out and, on the way, back you say, ‘geez what did I do that for???’

It’s another one of those situations…. Only a surfer knows the feeling.

D.R.

This morning at about 7:30 and overcast 

Later today when sunny 

As well today when sunny.

For me with the sun though the small lines even with a bit more wind on it look more inviting for some log board fun than the earlier overcast skys.

 

 The memories of a lost surf spot live on. If you’ve had good times at a surf spot those memories can live on for a long time, if not a life time.

When I worked at the Morey-Pope shop on Front street in Ventura my shaping bay was on the back side of the building that had a sliding door to the outside that was typically left open. From my shaping bay looking out the open door was a perfect view of the peak on the south east side of the pier. 

All day long while working I could see if there was surf, what the conditions were like and see guys ride the waves that were there. If I still worked in that old shaping bay the view would be there but the surf wouldn’t, because the spot doesn’t break anymore. Maybe every once in awhile it will have a ride able wave though hardly ever.

Just above the pier on the other side was the original “C” street break. That break which was right at the end of California street is no more either. Sure You may go to Ventura to surf “C” street but where you actually surf isn’t where the “C” street break was. What is now typically called The Cove or The Point or inside Point isn’t where “C” street was.

If you’re going to Ventura to surf you’ll get off the freeway at California Street.  So surfing Ventura has evolved into surfing “C” street.

There a a couple other spots that have been lost up the coast from Ventura about 10 minuets. A place Called Tanks and the more famous spot Stanley’s.   

I recently spent a few weeks on Hawaii Island in Hilo. While there I visited Orchid Land Surf Shop a couple times. https://www.orchidlandsurfshop.com    Stan Lawrence, the proprietor, has been a resident and surfer on the island for over 50 years. He’s recently published a book. Kalapana, Reflections of Lost Waves, Where he tells the stories of the surf spots on the island that had been lost from lava flows from the island volcano in 1990, some 12 to 18 different spots. Some called world class at that.

We’ve lost some surf spots in the Ventura. Thinking about what it’s like to see a dozen tropical location surf spots disappear after surfing them as part of your daily life for 20 years?

The saying ‘Only a surfer knows the feeling’. Only a surfer could know the heart break of seeing your favorite surf spot disappear right before you eyes.

One of the stories in his book Stan tells of surfing one of his favorite spots called Drainpipe. Sitting in the lineup and seeing a thousand foot fountain of lava erupting above Kalapana “sending a red and black wall of destruction toward us…. By the time we came in from the water , the slippers we had left near a tree had been burned up”.

There are some serious memories there. Take a deep breath and think about what that’s like.

D.R.

On my web site at the top of the surfboards page second paragraph reads…

All the events that transpired in the development and process of designing and making each of the different models I have give each board a unique story.  We all have a story to tell, and so do my surfboards

Several weeks ago I got to talking with a long time customer of mine about one of the boards he had put up for sale. It was first put at Wave Front Surf Shop then was at Ventura Surf Shop. I’m not sure if someone bought the board at Wave Front and shortly there after took the board to VSS to sell.

Well a guy, John, whom I’m familiar with bought the board from VSS and contacted me for some information about the board, which I’m always happy to provide.

When I was talking with Mike, the person I made the board for about the board, he told me the story of how we came up with the color for the board. So, I past that story on to John.

So this particular surfboard has been developing it’s own story. Memories from each person that has had the board.  When surfing, how the board was made, where the boards has been.

That’s the idea behind the paragraph on my web site.

This week I got an e-mail from someone inquiring about a board I made back in 1986. I honestly could not remember the board at all but because of the date on the board and the label I could determine where the board was shaped and tell Ryan, the person with the board, it’s place in my own storey of shaping that particular model. And that model’s significance in surfboard history from Morey-Pope. As it’s a reissued of one of the popular boards just before the surfboard evolution period.

I’m sure that board being as old as it is has a lot of stories to tell. One would be… where has it been all this time. Ryan said “I found it on the curb. Someone was throwing it away.” Ryan is planning to clean it and patch it up for his son and his son’s friend. So the board will live another day.

That board was made during a time when I subcontracted the laminating process. As well, that particular model is typically done with a tinted lamination. This 1986 one has a painted color job. It was also made before I had the Label for that model made. Have no recollection of who it was made for but for sure was a custom order. 

This brings to mind this blog post. https://drsurfboards.blogspot.com/2020/01/  And the story of another surfboard. Look at all the places it has been… stories for sure.

D.R.

Making surfboards over the years gives one the vantage point of seeing some of the various design applications that developed and became popular, coming in and out of vogue at various times.

One of those features is the Tail Block. An application to the tail of a long board that could add strength to the vulnerable corners of the square tail designed surfboard. As well, add not only strength but be an attractive element.

For the most part the first application of the tail block was wood. After shaping the board, we would cut back a small section of the tail and apply a piece of wood to the foam that replaced the part that was cut off and shape that wood piece feathering it seamlessly into the exact shape of the board. 

It could be a simple one piece of wood or layered pieces glued together. The sky was the limit on creativity.  All dependant on wherever the shaper/craftsman’s ideas and abilities took them.

I worked for a surfboard company that used High Density colored foam to add some strength and an eye-catching element to not only the tail but the nose. The tip of a nose is another area vulnerable to damage and the high-density foam was some added strength there.

A number of years ago I got the brainy idea of pouring a little colored resin left over from a colored board lamination into a small tray that was close to the size of a tail block. The tray would get a layered accumulation of the various colors over time. When the tray was full, I’d use the then solid piece of layered colored resin for a tail block. 

The Tail Block, it takes extra time to put a tail block on a board. You can’t be in a rush. It definitely adds an element of creative interest. A good reason to do it…. If you can.

D.R. 

What is it about shaping surfboards that you can’t see but want to?

The job is done behind closed doors. When someone asks if they could watch a guy shape a board why is the answer typically “no”? Is it because us shaper types don’t want people to see our secrets? “No”.  Couldn’t say there are any secrets to shaping a surfboard. After all you can be taught. There are private classes available. Not many but some.

Shaping is hard work physically and takes real concentration. Getting distracted is not what you want. Someone watching can be distracting….. so there it is.

There have been a few times when I said, “OK you can watch”. And then there is this….I Shaped a board at the Sacred Craft Show, now called The Board Room Show. My son used his phone to record a little of the process and posted it on You Tube. I guess you could say from the video hundreds of people have watched me shape at least for a couple minutes, aside from the folks at the event that could watch from start to finish. Possibly a fatiguing exercise.

Before shaping a surfboard it’s best to know the design aspects of the surfboard. Like deck, bottom, outline or plan shape, bottom rocker, deck curve, rail and rail profile, rail apex. board profile or foam distribution.

The finished surfboard you’d like to shape must be cut from a surfboard blank that is basically an oversized surfboard. And you’ve got to be able to get the board you want to shape cut from that blank…. Or you could say the board you want to shape must fit inside that oversized surfboard blank.

The above graphic is the cut view of a blank. The lower graphics are cut views of a few surfboard profiles.  A shaper needs to know if the surfboard profile they want to shape will fit inside the area of the blank.

Question… which board profile might fit inside the blank profile? Best to know before you get started otherwise you will have to modify design aspects of the board being shaped. And, will end up with something you didn’t intend…. Which of course sucks.

It doesn’t matter what size or kind of board you want to shape. Short, long, fish, mid length, alternative. The process and procedures are the same.

The saying “Know before you go” that applies to surfing applies to this as well I’d say.

Knowing where to start in the shaping process is not known to the beginner. Should you start milling the blank? Or maybe you should draw the outline and cut it first. Maybe mill the bottom and then draw the outline…. Does it matter?

Over time you can settle into a process routine and become comfortable with the craft. If shaping is something you’d like to do best to know that it will take plenty of time sweating through several boards.

Then again, if you can have a board cut by one of the cnc machine shops it would make your life in shaping a lot easier. Honestly, I don’t think going that route is anywhere near as fulfilling.

D.R. 

 

We are one month into winter where I am in the northern hemisphere. That means the ocean temperature is a bit cold in my neck of the woods. How cold you might ask?

Well, lets just say after living in the tropics where the water temps could be easily 80 degrees, maybe a couple ticks to a few ticks lower in the winter months…. That’s translates to a 20 to close to a 25 degree difference for where I’m surfing now. Depending on the time of year.

Do I need to say surfing in the warmer waters is way better? This may have been said before but, it’s been 14 years now since I left our Ventura in town home where the daytime temperatures don’t fluctuate too much. Winter months can and do get chilly. Maybe down to the upper 40’s at night and early morning at the peak of winter. Day time temps will typically be 60 + - or better. With the warmer months being 60’s 70’s and even 80 or so at times.

Now… I’m about 7 miles from the beach. The last couple of days there has been snow on the mountains inland and visible from here. Even visible from the beach in town. Right now as I’m writing it’s 52 at the beach and 7 miles inland it’s 56. At 7a.m. this morning it was 35 degrees where I am and about 48 the same time at the beach.

Did I say I don’t like cold water??? Well, I don’t like cold weather either. A few days ago, I was thinking I’d really like to get down to the beach in the morning and surf….. maybe. I’ll beef up the wet suit and it will be doable. When I got up and checked the temperature outside before I was to head out it was 32 degrees. Sure, it was warmer at the beach by maybe 8, 10 degrees but, at 32 I was not interested in even going outside let alone go surf.

I said to myself…. ‘I’m too old for this’.

Ok, I know… you’re only as old as you feel. Well, I know another thing. If I was in the tropics looking to go surf in the morning, I wouldn’t be feeling old at all. Even if it was the end of January. Now maybe too old if the surf was on the very large size. So, then you just go to another spot that’s not taking the swell as strong and surf there.

Got to love the tropics.

D.R.

 Four of a kind. Delivered to Core Surf in Florida some time ago.

Image nicked from. 

https://www.instagram.com/maclarensstories/

Thank you!

Last month on the 27^th the day before Thanksgiving the sale of our home and property was finalized.  We were given until 11:59 pm Monday December 2 to be completely moved out.

During the process I pulled the outline patterns from my destroyed shop. Then got in the garage rafters and pulled down the outlines stored there. The below picture is the pile I gathered. 

These have come from 57 years of shaping for 11 different surfboard labels or you could say a dozen if you include my own label as well.  I counted them, which I’d never done before. Had no reason to but when I looked at the pile I got curious.

There are 62 hard copy surfboard outlines in that pile. That seems like a lot. With out knowing what might be normal for 57 years of history or what anyone else with a long history in surfboards has…. How would you know what is normal.

I sometimes have customers come to me with a favorite board and ask if I will make them a board like it. My answer is ‘I don’t copy surfboards but, let me grab a couple outlines and lay over your board. Most likely I’ve got something that will match’.  It may take a couple curves to get the same lines but it seems to always happen.

Kind of nice having some nice curves….

Happy New Year!

D.R.

A few customers with their new boards

 This one is a Classic Penetrator

Bradon with his new Classic Machine

Ryan with one DR V and one Imperial

Vince at Rincon driving a bottom turn on The 67

Meg smiling with here new Gadget.

Besides seeing some customers at the beach, which is always nice. Because my workshop is still not usable, I've really been missing seeing and talking surfboards with my customers. 

D.R.

 

 Summer is officially over. And what a summer it wasn’t.

Here in Ventura we received one decent summer swell. And it was during the Ventura County Fair. Getting a nice south swell during the Fair is predictable. It last for 10 days so getting something during those 10 days is likely.

Thing about the fair is that parking gets shut down. The formally free lot gets closed and the pay lot up into pipe is also closed. So the only place to park close to the beach is at inside point. That gets filled up during the Fair before sun up if there is a swell. And that’s what happened the day of the only decent south swell this now past summer.

Fortunately when I got down at the point, when it was still dark, I found a parking space so I could park and go for a walk up the point as the day was just getting light. Check the conditions, see where the swell was focused and of course see all the guys that would have parked up in the upper lot, that was closed, walk all the way up to Pipe. Some guys even running. Not that the surf was that great but it takes several minutes to get up there and then several minutes to get back to you vehicle after you surf. When you’ve got to get to work every minute is crucial.

Not everyone will make the trek up to Pipe so they just go out at the point or surf inside point. Which makes for very crowed conditions. Even though the swell produce pretty consistent sets unless you were really aggressive getting a set wave was though. This ole guy wasn’t feeling very aggressive that day so I got a whopping 4 waves during the hour plus I was in the water.

Days like that have me longing for my younger days when there where fewer surfers and you could surf for a hour or two and get worn out. Getting plenty waves and lots of paddling to get back in the lineup for another go at it.

The other thing about this now past summer was the water temperature…. call it cold. Wearing a winter suit into June is a bit much. But if you didn’t want to shiver for an hour…. Well that’s what if did. It did finally warm up but didn’t stay that that way. Even now the water is just above 60 degrees. The water temps last winter got pretty cold so looks like there could be repeat of cold water  this winter.

With no real summer surf maybe we’ll get some nice fall surf. In my neck of the woods fall can offer up some nice consistent surf.

Hoping for the best.

D.R.

 My wife and I have been going through some stuff we’ve had in storage. In a box of board games this surfaced….

                                                 

Anyone ever seen this. I can’t say I tried playing the game and honestly don’t remember anything about it.

It looks to be laid out like the game of Monopoly. There are 2 sets of cards that a player gets to draw from similar to Monopoly that are labeled Trivia and Challenge. 

So what the heck… lets look at what these cards say.

Challenge Question: What was the first surf magazine called?

The answer says, The Surfer

I don’t think that’s right. I believe it’s just Surfer, or Surfer Magazine.

Ok, another one: What does ASP stand for?

The answer says, Association of Surfing Professionals.

Kind of dated since the ASP is no longer. I’m pretty sure we have the WSL. World Surf League. The games was made in 1996… we’ve moved on from then.

How ‘bout a Trivia card.

Is there really a famous surfer known as “Da Bull”?

Answer says, Yes. But the card doesn’t say his name. Sad that one, The late Greg Knoll may he rest in peace.

One more: When 2 people surf together on the same board, what kind of surfing is that?

Answer, Tandem. Not sure Tandem surfing is much of a thing these days. But there it is.

Maybe I’ll post some more surf trivia question another time.

D.R

I've not updated or uploaded surfboard pictures to my web site for some time.  So there are a good 16 different models listed.

However,  here are some images of a few board models I make that are currently not listed on my web site.

D.R.

Mini T&G

The DR Vee

DR Wing Nose

DR Wing Nose

The 70’s Single Fin

 

Of the 40 some miles of coast line that is inside Ventura County about 30 of those miles one could actually live at the beach or a few blocks from the beach.

Maybe 20 miles are homes on the beach or areas that are beach breaks. Ventura town itself has a short area of home on the beach and there are some condos and apartments on the beach on the point.

As a kid if you were fortunate enough to have lived in one of those beach communities and started surfing…. well, most likely that’s what every surfer would like. The Campbell brothers Malcolm and Duncan lived along the beach in Ventura County in what is called Oxnard Shores. That’s where one of the most world renowned surfboard designs got its start. https://www.bonzer5.com/

Over the years there have been a number of surfboard labels that have come up out of Ventura County that have held up over the years. William Dennis being one of them getting started in 1967 and still being made today. Ventura surf shop is one of the longest established surf shops on the California coast and it is home for William Dennis Surfboard as well as a home for Campbell Bros.

In the early days of surfing there was Morey-Pope that had success and reach outside of its home of Ventura County. In contemporary times I’d say it’s Campbell Bros. that have certainly had success and reach outside of Ventura County. As a matter of fact, Campbell Bros have continued to grow. The reach of their unique design is global. There are very few surfboard labels that have a global audience. Not only a global audience but also a surfboard design like no other. If you know surfboards and see a Bonzer you know exactly what it is…. Not your normal run of the mill kind of shape. As well as many surfers favorite boards.

The population of Ventura County has grown in large proportions. Still certainly not as populated as other places along the coast of California. The more populated coastal towns and counties have certainly contributed to surfing and surfboards in very large ways. And I would say that Ventura has its contributions too. Both in the early days of the surfboard industry and now.

My post this past May got me started writing about all this Ventura stuff because… “I was recently told that a certain surf magazine publication turned away a story about Morey-Pope. The  60’s surfboard company from Ventura  and it’s very significant contribution to surfing and it’s history…..”

Well that Story has been published. In Australia not California https://www.pacificlongboarder.com/

Go figure.

D.R.

 

The first ever surf contest that paid money to the top competitor was at “C” street in Ventura.

It was put together by Tom Morey in summer of 1965. Morey was head of the USSA at the time and seems with that position would be the right ingredient for a successful event… which it was.

Keep in mind that in the mid sixties the only surfboards being ridden were what we now call long boards. As I’ve said in past posts we just called the boards we surfed back then  a surfboard. One of the most difficult things to do on a long board is to execute a nose ride. Some people can nose ride and get pretty good at it. Others have a difficult time even getting close to the nose let alone hang what we call toes over the nose.

What Morey did with the first ever cash prize surf event ( pro surf contest ) was make the judging of the event objective. The objective was record the length of time the contestants spent on the nose… 25% of the boards length from the tip of the nose. It didn’t matter what you looked like getting to the nose or after, your style or anything else. The judges held stop watches and recorded the time a contestant spent in the 25% area of their board while on what ever wave they caught.

The surfer with the highest total time on the nose won the event. No subjective judging at all. That’s never happened since. Of course how could you have an objective surf meet when riding the surfboard of today? Unless the event is a long board event. The nose riding event the judges only had to do a little math as opposed to deciding how well a surfer maneuvered through the wave that was caught.  And, if the surfers style was more likeable than other competitors.

Then there is the luck of the draw on what competitors were in the right place at the right time to paddle into the better waves that come through the time of day and time of the heat being surfed in. Morey’s surf meet had that part sure, the competitors had to find the best waves that would give them the best opportunity to hang on the nose. That’s a skill that is developed but still when the better waves were caught only the time spent on the nose was counted.

At some point a “pro surf event” had to happen to set up the possibility for a future of professionals. Someone had to be first and it had to be somewhere…. That place was Ventura. Not just a surf spot in Ventura County but in the town of Ventura.

The point in Ventura  produces a nice long board wave that can have a nice line for nose riding if not one of the better ones on the coast. Though the waves are pretty much thought a bit soft. However the secrets to the spot are held close by the locals. Like tides, winds, best swell directions, when the sands have moved around some to produce the better lines for nose riding   Or, for good all around recreational surfing.

Even gets surf all year long.

D.R.

 

Aside from a significant number of good surf spots in the short 42 miles of Ventura’s coastline, there have been some pretty significant surf industry contributions to the sport from people in Ventura as well.

The surfboard industry got it’s start in the 1950’s and by the early 60’s it began to grow exponentially.. There were a few surfboard builders in Ventura that started in the early 60’s One of the companies in Ventura in the early 60’s was a company called Ventura International Plastics.

VIP had a surfboard production process to make what was later called pop outs because they weren’t made in the traditional hand shaped process. The person that ran the company I believe was a man named Bill Fisher. These boards were sold all across the country in places like Sears. Not unlike the mass produced surfboards you can buy at Costco now days. Though the boards you find at Costco are what we call foamies, VIP boards were built with a fiberglass process.

Tom Hale also made surfboards in Ventura in the 1960’s and sold them at his store called Ventura Surf shop. Now the home of William Dennis Surfboards that was started in 1967. William Dennis Surfboards is one of the longest established surf board labels in California.

One of the most influential people in the business of making surfboards… Tom Morey,  started making surfboards in Ventura in the early 60’s. First as Surfboards Australia. Then teaming up with his friend Karl Pope and building a very influential board and surf accessories companies at the time and is still considered that to this day.

With the demand for surfboards and media exposure the various surfboard companies sponsored guys and gals that were recognized for their surfing abilities and these surfers would have a special surfboard model made for them. Moery-Pope had 2 of them. The John Peck Penetrator and the Bob Cooper Blue Machine. Of all the surfboard models that were made back then those 2 boards are in the lineup with only a few others as the most iconic of the period. If not the most uniquely different.  In 1968 they produced what has been considered the first short board in production. The McTavish Tracker.

They also developed a removable fin system. The system was developed for the industry and several other surfboard labels used the system and were able to have their own proprietary fins made specially for their label.

You know we didn’t have surf wax in the 60’s either. We used paraffin we got from the grocery store.  Morey-Pope developed a spray on product to use on your board to take the place of paraffin. That product was sold virtually everywhere you bought a surfboard. If it was still available there's hardly a long boarder that wouldn’t be using it today. But alas it wouldn’t be available because it was a solvent based material… now banned…. At least in California.

After Morey and Karl went different ways around 1970 Morey went on and developed the Morey Boogie body board and Karl stayed in Ventura and started making a sandwiched molded surfboard with a honey comb core. W.A.V.E. Water Apparatus and Vehicular Engineering.  Very innovative stuff. He later developed a travel board technology you could make a surfboard into 2 pieces for a suitcase type traveling arrangement. And  developed another hollow board that was virtually indestructible. I watched him throw one of those boards on the pavement to show how nothing would happen to it if you lost it on the rocks or something.

And yet that’s not all that's been created for surfing that has come from Ventura.

D.R.    

 Morey-Pope produced some very deferent magazine adds. Not like what you would see from some of the other labels from that time period.

Where I live, Ventura County, has right around 42 miles of coastline. Are there places to surf along the 42 miles? Absolutely.

Coming up the coast from just a short distance past the L.A, Ventura County line is a surf spot called County Line. It’s a very popular destination to surf for both L.A. surfers and surfers that live in the east south east inland area of Ventura County.

But County Line is just the first of…. well, I don’t know how many places there are to surf along those 42 miles of the coast. I’ve surfed many but not surfed them all. That could be a fun exercise. Go to every place there is you could surf along the 42 miles of coastline that fits inside Ventura County California.

I’ll tell you what…. You’d find some really good ones.

I know of one that can handle size and produces spitting barrels at size. I know of another that can offer up such a long line your legs laterally will tell you they’ve had enough. And, you’ll either straighten out or pull out because you don’t think you can make another turn off the bottom without collapsing. Honestly for all the surfers in the world few experience that sensation.

There is a spot at the county line of Ventura and Santa Barbara.  At the end of the  42 miles of coast line from the spot called “County Line”.  Speaking of the world of surfers….   This spot is known the world over and is a destination spot for surfers that travel to California to find surf. It has a name but is often called the Queen of the Coast. Why? Because it is the Crown of the surf spots of California.

I was recently told that a certain surf magazine publication turned away a story about Morey-Pope. The  60’s surfboard company from Ventura  and it’s very significant contribution to surfing and it’s history…..  My response was to say… “Typically the Ventura area and into Santa Barbara is mostly overlooked by the more populated southern end of the California coast surfing community.”  So it wasn’t really a surprise to me. But sad.

The city of Ventura is a beach town. The street to enter down town Ventura is California Street. California Street is just 3 and a half blocks long. It starts at the beach and goes those 3.5 blocks straight up to a majestic looking building that is the Ventura City Hall. Climb the steps to the front doors to City Hall turn around and look back down California Street. You’ll be looking a the start of a surf spot best known as “C” Street, short for “California Street”

Keeping in mind that surfing is the state sport of California… I think The City of Ventura is the only place in California that the City center looks straight at a surf spot. Just a short 14 miles up the road from “C” Street is the “Queen” of the coast. From there back down to “C” street there are 3 other fine point breaks. “C” Street being one of them. Someone tell me out side of the area of coast called The Ranch , which is all private property, is there any other 14 mile stretch of coast in California that has 4 very surf able point breaks?

How many thousands of surfers have developed their skills at those surf spots? How many surfers travel specifically to Ventura to surf those spots?  Plenty!

Ventura has largely contributed and is still contributing to surfing and its history. Morey-Pope was a part of that contribution during the earlier days of surfing.   

D.R.

If and when you find this spot looking like this and you pick off one of those waves... It can lead to wobbly legs as mentioned above.